STRAWBERRIES
There is nothing that says “Hello Summer” quite like eating a juicy vine ripened strawberry.
By growing various varieties of strawberries you can pick ripe fruit from late spring until frost.

TWO TYPES OF STRAWBERRIES
June Bearing:

Day Neutral / Everbearing

 

EXPOSURE
Full sun to part sun

 

PLANTING

 

 

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MULCH
Apply 2 to 3” of Soil Building Compost in the fall to protect the crowns of your strawberries during the winter.

FERTILIZATION
New plants
Fertilize with Dr. Earth Fruit Tree Fertilizer 2 weeks after planting, then 1 month after that, and again 1 month later
Established plants

Text Box: CHECK LIST  ____Organic Soil Building Conditioner  ____Dr. Earth Starter Fertilizer  ____Bonide Root n Grow  ____Mulch
PRUNING
June bearing: after harvest mow foliage to about 2” above top of the crowns, being careful not to damage the crowns. This is usually done Mid July till first of August.
               A. remove, destroy all plant debris
               B. Thin out old and week plants
 

WATERING
Established Strawberries require 1 to 1 ½” per week- but may need more depending on your soil type.
When watering make sure water penetrates soil to the depth of 6 to 8 inches.
Good soil moisture is very important at all times but especially
1. Just after bloom through harvest. Good watering practices ensure the berries develop a nice size and flavor.
2. From late August through early fall, when the plants resume growth and forms flower buds for the following seasons crop

YIELDS
1 to 2 pounds per plant or 15 to 20lbs per 20’ row. Yield varies greatly with culture, and the age on planting. The best yield is usually the year after planting.

Strawberries typically exhaust themselves after 4 to 5 years. We recommend starting a new planting in another location (need to rotate crops) during the last year your existing planting is fruiting. It is better to purchase plants from the nursery so that you get virus free plants.

 


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